Central Saint Martins UAL
Specialisms: Womenswear / Jewelry /
Location: New York, United States
First Name: Grey
Last Name: Buscemi
Specialisms: Womenswear / Jewelry
Sectors:
My Location: New York, United States
University / College: Central Saint Martins UAL
Course / Program Title: Fashion MA
My work started with a BA economics thesis on the garment industry in Southeast Asia. What I
found was that sewing is skilled enough to resist automation, but the garments it produces cannot
carry a price that pays the people making them fairly. I decided to design around it, and
developed methods of garment construction that use no sewing at all. Looking back, I can trace
the practice to my lineage, an Italian grandfather who was a bespoke tailor and a Korean
grandfather who was an engineer with many patents of his own. I take my technical references
from scenarios of invention, early aviation, broadcast and communication hardware, and the
drawings and mechanisms that made them possible. The garments are assembled by the same
logic as those references, through joints, fixings and tolerances rather than stitches, so the construction carries the history it came from.
My graduate collection, In Air Off Air, is inspired by the invention of aviation. It references construction techniques and materials directly from the first attempts at aviation. This includes a paper dress and top, a calico dress and top, a plywood jacket, two donegal tweed skirts with sterling silver rivets, and two silk skirts — all crafted without the use of sewing. The collection is crafted without the use of sewing as a statement against the current fashion system, proving that there are other ways to make clothing besides sewing.