Accademia Costume & Moda
Graduates: 2023
Specialisms: Formal/Couture
My location: Rome, Italy
First Name: Emiliano
Last Name: Marinelli
University / College: Accademia Costume & Moda
Course / Program: Fashion Design MA
Graduates: 2023
Specialisms: Formal/Couture
My Location: Rome, Italy
Memoria d'Umanità is a project born from curiosity about the past, at the beginning of this journey I was asked to be able to tell myself, who I am, precisely from this arose in me the need to return to my origins. I wanted to go back to the places of my childhood to be able to understand what really influenced me and to find those traces that have remained imprinted on me. It was spontaneous to return to the room that brought me closer to the world of fashion, or the one where my grandmother sewed, and from here I reviewed the first models that I looked at as a child with curiosity; and it is precisely the latter that are the main tool of research for the development of "memory of humanity". Returning to the attic I rediscovered the historical memory of all the work done by my grandmother, or all the models with patterns of the time (50 ', 60, 70') annexed, aged and badly reduced. In this way the whole process of selection and restoration started. Starting the restoration of the models was born in me the desire to realize them on a 1:2 scale and it is precisely through this passage that it has had its natural evolution in the proposal of the collection, rediscovering sartorial cuts and technical elements. Touching the matter and during the process of realization, the mechanism of wanting to de-structuralize the original models was triggered in order to give them a new light, and their contemporaneity, disorganizing, in some proposals, the habitual use of a certain garment. In addition, the patterns have not only suggested their evolution in the design of the proposed garments but have also been determined for the setting of the color chart (characterized by shades of gray), the processing and the prints of the fabric. Ironing the old patterns that remained, folded for years, their surface remained marked by the line of these folds as if it were an ironed pleated; from this behavior, the will arose to recreate such a fold memory on the fabric, and consequently, it was Proceeded to the establishment of a print form that is one of the elements that characterizes the entire project. Of fundamental importance for the development of the creative process, it was also the song "Resistere" by the La Rappresentante di Lista that helped me to communicate the type of contemporaneity that represents me. In fact, the text tells of a dream made of people, mistakes, defeats and desires. A dream where the limits and fears of falling are brought down by eyes full of wonder and amazement. A dream called life, during which living is the most revolutionary and normal act we can perform, and where ‘I don’t care about losing, what I need now is to live’. It is an indescribable pleasure to write your own story, resist every disturbance and look to tomorrow with the same curiosity with which a newborn looks at it; the same newborn protagonist of the beginning of this story, who goes through all the stages of life until he returns to recover his eyes as a child. "Tomorrow will be a day to remember, not to forget" (from "Resistere"). It is precisely the people who are another focal point of the project, the high fashion that I would like to tell is dedicated to human beings, because the latter too are the result of influences, of change and above all constitute the contemporaneity in which we live. In the project, therefore, I wanted to try to reconnect the new and past fragments that make up my personal creative imagination, faces and stories that I imagined could wear these certain garments. "Memory of Humanity" is based on a historical memory and a new identity. The collection is aimed at a female target but, after all, this definition is not right, my intention is to leave it to the human being to choose whether or not to wear the selected proposals, the essential thing is to be able to feel free to tell what you are.